昨晚，Istituto Secoli Fashion Show 2018拉開帷幕，過百套由Istituto Secoli卡羅世紀服裝學院畢業生親手設計與制作的服裝作品登上米蘭Alcatraz的T臺。

第35屆Secoli Fashion Show的主題為“QUOD SIGNUM”，拉丁語“信號”之意。

身體，服裝，象征與意義之間的關聯是什么？Secoli給你答案！

The garment product服裝商品

The marked sign on the body transforms it into a “garment-product”. Elastics that reproduce the inscription “sold-out” alternate with prints that recreate barcodes as if they were tattooed onto the skin. The elements that surround the body together with the garment recreate new symbolic value.

身上的標記使之化作“服裝商品”。反復出現“sold-out（售罄）”字樣的松緊帶，商品條形碼式樣的印花，宛如皮膚的紋身印記。種種元素與衣服一并包裹著身體，重塑新的符號價值。

Zero grade garments零級服裝

Lines that define the garment that is designed directly on the body. Transparent fabrics alternate with blocks of colour as if they were embroidered onto the skin. Geometry and layers of clothing help to enhance the relationship between body and garment.

直接在身體上設計的服裝，由線條來定義。透明的材質，色塊的碰撞，猶如刻在皮膚上刺繡。幾何圖案和衣服層疊，讓身體和服裝的關系更緊密。

Forms beyond conventions超越常規

Stereotypes and customary parameters that are able to go beyond the body ascribe new concepts and meanings. Over-sized volumes are juxtaposed with emphasised details; pastel tones alternate with rigid lines to create a new volume of the body.

新的概念，新的涵義，讓固有的常規數據超越身體。寬大的廓形與精致的細節并存， 柔和的粉蠟色調配以硬朗的線條，為身體創造新的意義。

Colour as an emotional charge色彩，情緒能量

Stains of colour step in as an emotional charge on the outfit and the body, giving value to the individual garment. Minimal references on a white canvas, together with defined lines and alternating lengths, bring out the lines of the body conferring new meanings

斑斕色彩入侵，為衣服和身體注入情緒能量，賦予服裝獨特的價值。白色布料上的抽象色彩，清晰分明的線條，錯落有致的長度，突顯身體的線條并予以全新意義。

The fusion of colour with the body身體與色彩的交融

Red fuses with the body as if it were a garment, creating value as a sign. Games of asymmetry, stratification of garments and adhesions draw attention to the contours of the body, enhancing its relationship with colour.

紅色，與身體交融，猶如一件衣服，創造價值象征。不對稱的玩味，層層黏著的服裝，引發對身體輪廓的矚目，身體與色彩緊密難分。

Geometry of the body身體的幾何結構

Intertwined shapes highlight the plasticity of the male body. Anatomical sections can be seen thanks to stretch and juxtaposed fabrics; the anatomical masculine blueprint is an integral part of the outfit.

交織的形狀，突出男性體態的可塑性。延展拼接的布料，讓體態構造一覽無遺；突顯的男性體態亦是服裝整體的一部分。

The body is sign as a garment身體作為服裝信號

Light and transparent fabrics give a glimpse of the body, giving it meaning. The garment dematerialises; the body wants to liberate itself of the worn garment leaving room for fragments of skin that are embellished with new symbolic value.

輕盈薄透的布料，予之以一瞥胴體之意味。服裝被淡化，身體渴望從破裂的衣服中獲得釋放，片片外露的肌膚被賦予新的象征意義。

Perfect symbiosis完美共生

A primordial phase in which man and nature merge in absolute harmony. The floral embroidery that embellishes the garments outlines the harmonious coexistence of the body in relation to the environment that surrounds it.

人類和自然和諧并存的原始階段?；ɑ艽汤C裝點著服裝的輪廓，意味著身體與其置身所在的環境和諧共處。

Conflicting relationship沖突關系

The initial balance between man and nature is broken. The body succumbs to its rebellious strength and begins to wrap bodies with garments that are dominated by elements that change tones G and shades.

人類與自然的初始平衡被打破。身體屈服于其叛逆的力量，包裹著身體的服裝亦隨之轉變了色調與形態。

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